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THE ZAMALEK LEGEND
1900-1950
by Samir Raafat
Cairo Times, 15
December 2000 (this is an extended version)

Overbuilt north side of Zamalek Island with patch of green in the middle all that remains of the Gezira Club
Up until WW2 the name 'Zamalek' was secondary to 'Gezirah' (also spelt Gezireh or Gezira) when referring to the fertile island linked to the mainland by Kasr el Nil Bridge. But what did in fact officially bear the appellation Zamalek was the small iron bridge linking Zamalek's midsection to the then-fertile expanse of Giza.
Likewise, the street bisecting Gezirah's waist so to speak was called Avenue Zamalek. By mid century it became the island's qasaba--commercial lifeline, with a Cairo-Pyramids tramway line running through it. Avenue Zamalek would later change its name to Avenue Fouad before becoming 26th of July Avenue after 1952.
The name Zamalek itself was borrowed off a nearby Giza hamlet called el Zamalek situated south west of Embaba town. Different interpretations of 'Zamalek' have come up over the years. The most common legend is that Zamalek is the plural of Zomlok, an Albanian (some say Kurdish) term meaning straw hut. These huts were allegedly home to servants working in palaces belonging to rich merchants living in the then superior district of Boulak. Or, how about Zamalek, a corruption of the Arabic expression word zou-molk meaning 'he who owns assets.'
Prior to the arrival of the vernacular 'Zamalek', Gezirah (Arabic for island) was the most common appellative used when denoting the island especially after the construction, in 1866, of the Khedive's Gezirah Palace (today Marriott Hotel). Hitherto the island was known as Geziret Boulak --Boulak Island reference to the thriving 18th and 19th century port of Boulak situated on the Nile's eastern bank.
But was that chunk of land always an island? Not so if one were to consult old Cairo maps especially that drawn up in 1873 by geographer Mahmoud Falaki Pasha. They show how Gezira was united to the mainland of Giza. The situation changed however, every August-October, when, during high flood, three islands appeared, the largest one situated in the middle. Hence the name "Gezira al-Wosta-middle island, which is used today as a name for a Zamalek Street. Due to heavy silt and mud movements the three islands eventually merged into one. And it was only when a channel was burrowed on its western flank that the bobbing landmass became a bona fide inhabitable island.
In his letter to the Secretary of State dated 15 September 1873, American Consul R. Beardsley describes how "the island of Guezirah is rapidly being transformed into a beautiful public park and giant nursery. It will soon be home to the new museum presently under consideration." While the museum never materialized, the island was for several decades a large garden as recorded in plans meticulously laid out by khedivial court landscaper Gustave Delchevalerie.
For clues on the creation of the actual township of Gezirah a.k.a. Zamalek let's consult The Egyptian Gazette of 16 May 1903.
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LAND PURCHASE IN CAIRO A native contemporary [meaning an Arabic-language newspaper] has fallen into an error in stating that the Egyptian Markets Co. Ltd. have purchased 100 feddans from the Fathers of the African Mission. It is about a month ago now since Mr. Allan Joseph, on behalf of an English syndicate, purchased the land in question for STLG 80,000. It is intended to spend STLG 8,000 or STLG 10,000 in continuing the river wall, which extends from Ghezireh Palace and to divide the land into building plots. |
But were there any private residents on the island before the above date? In his postcard to the mayor of Boulogne Sur Mer in France, where he mentions the possible return of the body of Egyptologist Mariette Pasha, Chelu Pasha gives as his return address "Villa des Fleurs, Gezira". The postcard is dated dated 31 May 1900. Auguste Mariette who died 19 years earlier was himself from Boulogne sur mer hence the interest for his body to be shipped home.

During the 20th century teen years the island's northern section was almost uninhabited save for some ragtag farms and possibly a handful of pioneer foreign residents. 'North End' was how the island's first British residents, mostly retired military with comfortable sinecures in a flourishing Egyptian civilian administration, nicknamed what was in part a marshy area. Indeed, the island's northern Nile foreshore expanded and contracted and sometimes during particularly high floods disappeared altogether.
It was thanks to the Belgian-run tramway company, along with the town planners, that the opening in 1911 of William Scherzer's (not Eiffel) Boulak Bridge, took place. The Boulak a.k.a. Abou El Ela bridge was dismantled in 1998.) With the construction of Boulak Bridge and the rapid rise in urban development after WW1, it was a matter of time before the marshy area north of the island's Avenue Zamalek (26th of July Street) was developed. Whereas in 1926 the square meter in this section sold for LE 1.00, the area south of 26th of July Avenue sold for double that amount.
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The GHEZIREH BRIDGE Another new bridge is to be built across the Nile, the Government having decided on the construction of a magnificent structure to unite Boulac and Ghezireh. The work will be taken in hand shortly. The new bridge [to be known later as Abou Ela Bridge reference to a nearby Mosque] will be twenty meters in width and will form a most convenient connecting link between the fashionable new suburb of Ghezireh by the Boulac avenue. The Ghezireh quarter will thus soon form an integral portion of the capital especially as a double line of tramway is to be laid across the river. The Ghezireh end of the bridge will be about two meters to the north of the Ghezireh Palace Hotel and will divide the estate of the Egyptian Hotels Company in two parts. The Egyptian Gazette, 2 December 1905 |
As though to make a geographic and sometimes social distinction, old timers to this day will refer to the area south of 'Avenue Fouad' as 'Gezirah.' This is mostly due to its proximity to the quintessential Gezira Sporting Club established by the British in 1883 on land bequeathed to the British Army of Occupation by Khedive Tewfik.

Likewise, during the first quarter of the 20th century, any mention of "Gezirah Gardens" meant you were talking about that newly developed urban area on what had been the Khedivial Palace grounds, which originally encompassed the island's midsection occupying land 20 times as large as that presently occupied by the Marriott Hotel.
For a detailed description of the Gezirah Palace Gardens one has to consult the volume written by Gustave Delchevalerie on the subject Les Promenades et les Jardins du Caire (1899).
Khedive Ismail's chief landscaper was responsible for several vice-regal and public gardens as well as major boulevards, recounts how, on the 600-acre Gezirah island, over 1 million exotic species were planted in what amounted to a gigantic experimental nursery. This was subdivided into large square-shaped sections for different categories of plants: fruits (citrus and tropical), ornament, woods, windbreakers, vegetables etc. But that's not all that was on the island, according to Delchevalerie. It appears the island was the temporary home to 75 different species of animals and 150 species of birds. These were relocated to the Giza Palace following Khedive Ismail's abdication.
It appears however that part of island fell on hard times following the exile of Khedive Ismail. In his book Souvenirs (published in 1935) former state administrator Gallini Fahmy Pasha recounts how, in 1900, the state domains on the Gezira side of Kasr al-Nil bridge were squatted upon by brigands pausing as farmers.
| Whereas their izba was nothing less than a filthy agglomeration of hovels where contraband goods were hidden. With the consent of Egypt's financial controller Sir Elwin Palmer, I offered the squatters the choice to move out with due compensation or face the consequences. They refused to budge. Hence my decision to send an overnight task force of 300 able bodied men who forcibly evicted the squatters. The following month the filthy izba was replaced by a public park surrounded by an iron fence that would become one of the nicest promenades in Cairo. |
As the island's population rose steadily, the area north of 26th of July Avenue would be increasingly referred to as Zamalek. By the middle of the century the entire island would adopt that name evidencing that the island's commercial section had won the day.
Unless someone proves otherwise, Gezirah's first apartment building is Charles Baehler's 'Gezirah Mansions' designed in 1908-9 by Ernest Japsar of Heliopolis fame. Today the building is better known as Emaret el Yemeni--Yemeni Building despite "Gezireh House" feturing on a large marble plaque above the building's main entrance.
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GHEZIREH HOUSE, GHEZIREH First class flats to be let in a modern, up to date building, close to Ghezireh Palace Hotel and Khedivial Sporting Club. Latest perfected system of sanitary installation; automatic electric lift; every convenience. Apply to Anglo-Belgian Co. of Egypt, Ltd., Savoy Chambers, Cairo. Advertisement Section - The Egyptian Gazette, 5 June 1908 |
By 1924 the streets on the island's Gezirah section west of the former Khedivial palace had received lofty names. For instance, the streets lying west of Hassan Sabry (ex-Gabalaya) Street honored several Ayubid sultans including the notorious Armenian-born Sultana Shagaret el Dorr, the first woman to rule Egypt since Cleopatra. The streets east of Hassan Sabry were named after various members of the incumbent royal family. These were changed after 1952.
Flora too lent its name to parts of the island, which is why there was a Ward--Flower Street, and why the area surrounding the Anglo-American Hospital was, and still is, known as Zohria (Flowery) in view of the botanical gardens created there.
Several streets north of 26th of July Avenue were named after Egyptian residents of the island. Bahgat Ali Street was alternately known in the 1920s as "Rue Chawarby" reference to Mohammed Chawarby Pasha who owned a larger mansion there, and as "Rue Doctor Fathi Bayoumi" reference to a successful practitioner who was one of the first bona fide Egyptian to live on the island.

here were also streets named after several of the island's foreign residents such as Privat, Diacono, Milton, as well as British irrigation engineers (Sir William) Garstin, (Sir Scott Colin) Moncrieff and (Sir William) Willcocks. Likewise there are those streets named after Egyptian engineers: Ismail Mohammed, Sakib, Mohammed Mazhar and Mar'ashly.
Some streets were named after adjacent establishment hence the western section of Mar'ashly Street (the eastern part did not yet exist) was called Mahkamah (Tribunal) Street. In 1926 the Indigenous Court of Embaba was located where Mar'ashly today intersects Bahgat Ali Street. And there were streets named after nearby religious institutions such as Monsignor Sogaro, Comboni, and Saint Joseph.
True to Cairo tradition, many of Zamalek's streets succumbed to name changes. Pont de Boulak became King Fouad Bridge long before it became known as Kobri Abou El Ela, reference to the tomb of a nearby Sheik.
For lack of a name and since hardly anyone one lived there, Mohammed Mazhar Street was referred to as Gabalaya up to the late 1920s. It was, after all, an extension of the latter street. Later, it would carry different names such as Rue Rosi and Amir Saiid Street. It was only when Gabalaya was renamed Hassan Sabry Street that Bahr el Aama was itself renamed Gabalaya Street. Confusing? Absolutely! Well, here's more. Bahr el Aama or Blind Sea is reference to the western branch of the Nile that, up to the late 19th century, dried up in winter becoming a dead end for Nile boats. Only when the channel was deepened did it become navigable year-round.
Just as Khedive Ismail had commissioned the building of his summer palace of Gezira in 1866, other members of the Egyptian royal family would elect to live on his blessed island the following century. Three of their palaces were converted after 1952 into government-owned establishments. The palace of Prince Amr Ibrahim is now Ceramic Museum, the palace of Prince Omar Toussoun is today a branch of the Council of Ministers, and the Royal Rest House near the Gezira Sheraton is a an undisclosed military establishment soon to become the '1952 Revolution Museum'.
One of the first pre-1925 schools to open in Zamalek was run by the Catholic Church. Later on would come the Catholic Girls College off Bahgat Ali Street and the St. Joseph Preparatory School for Boys off Gabalaya Street (today Brazil Street). It would not be long before non-denominational and secular schools opened on the island as well.
Foremost among the island's schools was 'Zamalek School' founded in 1930 and operated by Madame Valentine Morin. At first located at No. 25 Mohammed Mazhar Street, then known as Mario Rosi, it moved in 1933 to much larger premises (1.5 feddans) at No. 4 Ibn al-Mashtub overlooking the Fish Garden. Whereas the school disappeared, part of its grounds became the German Embassy in the 1980s.
But the island's very first school opened the previous century (19th) on the northern part of the island. Its promoter was the Austria-Sudan (Catholic) Mission, also known as the Fathers of the African Mission or La Negrizia.
Founded in 1846 the Austria-Sudan Mission recruited its priests first from Verona and then from Southern Tyrol, with the ultimate purpose that they should enlighten the natives of Sudan. During the Mahdi's uprising, the missionaries fled to Egypt establishing temporary headquarters on 120 feddans (acres) of Gezirah Island land provided by Khedive Tewfik at a give-away price per feddan. There, the exiled missionaries set up a church, a school 'Leo XIII' and an agricultural farm. When it was safe for them to return to Sudan, now under joint Egypt-British control, the land was parceled out and sold to developers at a substantial profit, evidencing that the Church is quite skillful at business transactions.
Two other foreign institutes that operated from the island prior to WW2 were the official and the de-facto German Archeological Institutes. In 1931 the official one was located in a new villa, at No. 5 El Kamel Mohammed Street, headed by Professor Hermann Junker (1877-1962). When WW2 was declared the Institute was closed down. The de-facto German archeological Institute meanwhile operated out of the former German Orient Society--Deutsche Orient-Gesellschaft, in existence since the turn of the century. Located in a beautiful property overlooking the Nile, it is better known today as the Swiss Institute for Archaeological and Architectural Research--Maa'had El Swissry, hence the long-standing name of the adjoining street, which later changed to Aziz Abaza Street.
The occupant of this academic center (for a while known as the Borchardt Academic Foundation) was veteran Egyptologist Herr Ludwig Borchardt of Nefertiti fame. Like Hermann Junker, he was also from Germany, but unlike Junker the Catholic, Borchardt was a Jew. The advent of WW2 and fearing for his interests, the Berlin-born former director of the Deutsches Archaologisches Institut Kairo and his wife, Emilie Ed. Cohen, struck a deal with the Swiss in return for safe passage and protection. Professor Borchardt died in Zurich on 12 August 1938 aged 74. Ten years later the Swiss were declared the official beneficiaries of his floral estate on the Nile. They are still there today hence the survival of these century old buildings and their garden, which if the rumor is correct, is the also final resting place of Professor Borchardt's ashes.
Apart from these two German centers, by far the most important colonial institution on the island was the British Sirdaria.
Second in order of colonial importance after the British 'Residence' at Kasr al-Dubara, the Sirdaria was home to the British Commander of the Egyptian Army. The Sirdar (a borrowed Indian title) was also Governor General of the Sudan. Several Sirdars made their marks in British Imperial history, Kitchener and Wyngate foremost among them.
A Sirdar who made it posthumously to fame was Sir Lee Stack. His assassination on 19 November 1924, while returning to the Sirdaria, not only brought down Saad Zaghloul and the entire Wafdist government, but also cost Egypt its 50% stake in the Sudan.
The Sirdaria fronted the midsection of Avenue Zamalek. After 1936 it would turn into a British Club before becoming part Egyptian Officers Clue, part theatre after 1952. The last so-called Sirdar to live at the Sirdaria was Major General Sir Spinks Pasha. Relieved of his functions following the Anglo-Egyptian Treaty of 1936, he and Lady Spinks, moved into a 4th floor apartment at No. 18 "Nile View," Saraya el Gezirah. Menawhile, during WW2, Zamalek was home to platoons of multinational generals and field marshals, along with foreign kings and exiled heads of state. They occupied some of Zamalek's grandest villas while the poorest among them, like the king of Greece, would make do with their embassy residence.
A long gone pre-WW2 landmark is the once famous Thomas Cook & Son docking facilities at what was then nicknamed Izbet al-Kobri (Bridge Farm) later to be replaced with a pleasure palace and the Gezira Sheraton. Hence, visits to Luxor and Aswan aboard Cook's legendary paddle steamers (SS Setti to PS Karnak and Tewfik) began or ended at Gezirah's southern embankment. It is also at Cook's Gezirah wharf that several dozen cases containing capital objects from Tutankhamun's tomb, arrived on Monday, 21 May 1923, en route from Luxor to the Egyptian Museum.
Almost hidden below 6th of October Bridge are two other Nileside landmarks. Opposite the Ramses Hilton across the Nile stands El Gezirah Mosque. It is the island's first Muslim place of worship. Constructed in 1876 by Khedive Ismail it was completely restored during the reign of King Farouk who attended its re-launch in December 1945. Also beneath the overriding shadow of the same bridge is the Feroussia equestrian Club. Opened on 30 April 1938 by the King himself it had for its first honorary president Prince Youssef Kamal with al-Nabil Amr Ibrahim named its first president. For a long time it was frequented by Cairo's elite. A place where many young ladies were wooed by handsome cavalry officers in their awesome military atire.
Two other century-old institutions still around on Gezirah Island are the Anglo-American Hospital and the Fish Aquarium.
During Gezirah island's pre-WW1 days the aquarium was a favorite for picnics. The aquarium also known as Hadikat al-Asmak opened to the public in November 1902. It was landscaped by Captain Stanley Flower at a cost to the state of LE 1,150. But perhaps we should use the term 're-landscaped' since, thirty years earlier, the foundations of that popular destination, had already been laid out by Delchevalerie. In his above-mentioned volume he metions how "The Ghezireh Aquarium and its magnificent grotto were constructed by MM. Combaz & Dumpily." But in those days the palace gardens and their dependencies was the for the exclusive pleasure of the Khedive and his privileged guests.
Prior to WW1, Café Gezirah was a place to relax and to gamble, according to turn of the century travel writer Amedée Baillot de Guerville. This was the island's only such convenience courtesy of two Italians, Messrs. Dalbagni & Corbetta. In her book New Egypt (Ldn., Heinemann, 1905) de Guerville describes Café Gezirah as a
| "curious roofless building of white stone, made up of a stage and boxes, which is used, I believe, in summer as a café-concert. An enterprising gentleman attempted a year or two ago to establish there a miniature Monte Carlo. He arrived one day with his luggage composed exclusively of roulette boards and pretty women, the latter more charming than virtuous, and was convinced, that, armed with irresistible weapons, he would encounter little difficulty in plucking rich visitors and spoiling the Egyptians." |
Nearby Dalbagni's eatery were Zamaleks' Theatre des Ambassadeurs and the popular skating rink later to be replaced with the Andalusian and a newer theatre called Masrah al-Geib (Pocket Theatre).

The only diplomatic institution in Gezirah prior to WW1 was the Agence Diplomatique Neerlandaise that had as its address: Mr. P. C. van Lennep, Villa Beauregard, Gezireh. Unlike today, diplomatic agencies were still situated in downtown Cairo and Kasr al-Dubara.
It is interesting to note that Egypt's first modern-day Exhibition Halls were re-introduced on the island in the 1920s replacing older ones built at the turn of the century, for by now Egypt's annual agricultural fairs were already world-famous. A half-century later, these same fair grounds became home to Egypt's Japanese-built opera house. And since the island's modern beginnings had been so inexorably tied with Egypt's first opera house during the Suez Canal inaugural festivities, in a way one of Cairo's chicks had come home to roost.
Zamalek early-1920s
map of Zamalek mid-1920s
above:pre-1905 map showing property of the (Comboni) Order de la Negrizzia; below map tracing the two major properties in Zamalek in 1900
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MORE ZAMALEK LANDMARKS
06-02-06 NATIONAL SPORTING CLUB |
Member of parliament for Zamalek and Garden City (18th district)The Honorable Hesham Moustafa Khalil (NDP) is deputy chairman of the Parliamentary Culture, Tourism and Media Committee reachable at: hkhalil54@yahoo.com |
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